Mystery Worshipper: Brandi Anderson
Church:
Cathedral of St Andrew the Apostle, Amalfi
Location: Italy
Date of visit: Sunday, 23 March 2025, 9:30am
The building
The cathedral was built in the 9th century and includes two basilicas, a crypt, bell tower, and the Cloister of Paradise. The Romanesque style building takes your breath away. It is massive, ornate, historical, and feels like being in heaven or a holy place that is not part of this world. People of all shapes, sizes, and abilities hiked the 62 steps up to the building, many stopping on the way to rest. Some sitting at the base with gelato in one hand and bags of tourist goods in another. Do they know they are sitting at the foot of a holy place, where the relics of St Andrew remain?
The church
The cathedral is the most significant relic and monument on the Amalfi Coast. The remains of the apostle Andrew are located here, and the church is open to tourists and visitors throughout the week, although a sign shows that no tourists or groups may enter during mass and service hours. Walking up the steps of this holy place feels slightly like walking up the staircase to a heaven on earth.
The neighborhood
The cathedral is located in a bustling piazza with restaurants, tourist shops and apartments. The shore of the beautiful Amalfi coast is a few streets away.
The cast
The priest led the service, recited the readings and scriptures, and preached. Three other people spoke during the service. One man had a blue winter jacket on with a hood, very casual compared to the purple robe worn by the priest. He walked up to the pulpit and said a few words in Italian. One woman and another man helped with various parts of the service.
What was the name of the service?
Sunday Mass.How full was the building?
It was just about half full with about 75 people. All appeared to be locals, speaking Italian and ready for mass. As mass came to an end, more people started showing up and took communion.
Did anyone welcome you personally?
Nobody welcomed me. On the contrary, a large white sign posted outside the cathedral door said, ‘No Tourists’, but the details were in Italian. The door was slightly open so I walked in, thinking maybe I can pass for a local, just for this service.
Was your pew comfortable?
The pew was solid wood and fairly hard. There was a wave shaped space in the back of all the pews.
How would you describe the pre-service atmosphere?
I did not attend the pre-service because I showed up at 9.40am for a 10am mass, but the mass was already in session.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
I do not know the exact words because I was not there for the opening of the service. I don't speak Italian, and I am not Catholic.
What books did the congregation use during the service?
I did not see any Bibles, books, or hymnals. The person in front of me had a one-page flyer that might have included information about the service and updates, but I am not sure. When I looked around, nobody was reading from any book or handout. They must have everything memorized.
What musical instruments were played?
Just an organ. It sounded beautiful. Nobody led the music or worship.
Did anything distract you?
Have you ever listened to someone speak holy words and sign music in a language you do not understand? This process is distracting because the mind is searching for words and terms that it understands and knows. A dog was barking outside – someone might have tied it up while going to the mass. Tourists must have not read the sign, because they were walking in on my right taking photos, talking, laughing, and missing the point that a mass was happening at that very moment. The handsome man in front of me sat with his elderly father or uncle, wearing a pressed and perfectlly tailored Italian suit. I wanted to reach out and touch the fine fabric... but I did not.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what?
Worship was super stiff, with the solemn faces of the Italians staring straight forward to the priest. Everyone was dressed in their Sunday best (except for the speaker in the blue hooded jacket mentioned earlier). There were no hands raised, smiles, hallelujahs, or dreaded meet and greets.
Exactly how long was the sermon?
This is an estimate: 15 minutes.
On a scale of 1-10, how good was the preacher?
I can’t score the sermon as it was in Italian. The priest was formal and elderly. He was dressed in a robe and his voice was kind but firm.
In a nutshell, what was the sermon about?
The only words I understood were ‘Father, Son, and Holy Spirit’ at the beginning of the sermon.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?
Sitting in the cathedral was like being in heaven. The ornate architecture, fresco paintings, crosses, gold and brass must be a glimpse of heaven.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place?
The sign at the door disinviting tourists and groups to services felt exclusionary, and perhaps a bit like the dualistic ideas of heaven and hell. I understand why they don’t want loads of tourists showing up with cameras at mass to disrupt the service, but they should lock the doors if tourists are such a big deal. And the distracting tourists with cameras showed up anyway. Mass felt a bit impersonal and even like a duty or requirement of being a Catholic in Italy. I thought to myself… is this what every mass is like? If it is, I would have a hard time following the Catholic teachings or showing up every Sunday for mass. It felt distant, disconnected, and obligatory. The building felt like being in heaven, but the service felt a bit like hell.
What happened when you hung around after the service looking lost?
The ending of the service was a bit confusing because people were coming in to sit down as the mass ended. This might have been because another mass was going to start. I am not sure because I did not stick around.
How would you describe the after-service coffee?
I did not see an after-service coffee of any kind. The only food exchanged was during communion.
How would you feel about making another visit (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)?
8 — I would love to go to mass here with an English-speaking priest. Or learn Italian and go back so that I can soak up the words and experience more fully.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian?
Yes. I love the respect and way this cathedral is cared for. This makes me glad to be a Christian.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time ?
The building. I will remember the stairs leading up to the building, the people of all backgrounds and sizes and shapes and abilities walking up those stairs, searching for a piece of heaven on earth.